Church Street Pizzeria

$$$$ ($14 and under)

Editorial Review

The paintings of vintage Vienna landmarks on the wall pinpoint the place in Northern Virginia, but the pizza at Church Street Pizzeria supports the upstart's claim: "New York Style by the slice." What used to be a fur shop is now a trim, booth-lined pizza parlor where the dough is made fresh each day, spun into thin rounds and decorated with nothing more fancy than cinnamon, butter and sugar (that would be a dessert pizza). The slices at Church Street might not be as large as some of the ones you'll find in the Big Apple, but they're easy to fold and a pleasure to eat. The draw of the lot is a wedge of the vegetable pie ($1.75), scattered with crisp rings of green bell pepper, black olives, purple onion, mushrooms and bubbling cheese. A neighborly air permeates the place. Small wonder: Marty Volk also owns the Vienna Inn, just "80 yards away," he says, and an easy commute between the two charmers.

--Tom Sietsema (Dec. 16, 2007)