2013 Fall Dining Guide
By Tom Sietsema
October 10, 2013
What's the chef smoking? Just about everything. From the olive oil perfumed by applewood chips and dried herbs to the rice pudding punched up with grilled mango sorbet, chef Victor Albisu leaves seemingly no dish untorched in this dashing tribute to his Cuban father and Peruvian mother.
The heart of the menu is a dozen kinds of wood-grilled, herb-smoked meat -- puffy veal sweetbreads, hanger steak, glossy short ribs -- presented on a wooden board with roasted red peppers, melting garlic and bone marrow. For something light, start with a seviche, maybe black-edged salmon on buttery avocado encircled in yellow aioli.
And if meat isn't your thing, go for the fabulous Peruvian-style chicken (duck fat under the skin makes it rich) or the golden pot pie swollen with Swiss chard, spinach, bechamel and more. Lunch brings a monster sandwich stacked high with rib-eye, mortadella, ham, provolone and hearts of palm topped with a fried egg.
Dressed in browns and beiges, Del Campo ("of the country" in Spanish) evokes the asados, or barbecues, of South America. Come hungry.