Editors' pick

Deli City

Deli, Southern/Soul
$$$$ ($14 and under)
'

Editorial Review

Deli City opened as a kosher-style delicatessen in 1979, and while its menu has evolved since then to embrace pork chops, crab cakes and turkey bacon, the mission remains the same: "Everything's prepared in the restaurant," owner Jay Eckstein will tell you. The scrappy dining room isn't much to look at, but the gentle spirit of the place makes up for a lack of eye candy. Eckstein's mother, Serena (she's the kindly woman at the cash register), seems to play that role for regulars and strangers alike, and the genial servers follow her lead. The son turns all Deep Throat when anyone tries to get the scoop on Deli City's terrific corned beef; Eckstein shares only that he cooks the stuff for four hours and cuts the meat against the grain before serving it between a couple of slices of very good rye ($5.95). But if you like your corned beef moist, juicy and fatty, you're going to find yourself making a habit of the model served here.

--Tom Sietsema (July 2, 2006)