2004 Dining Guide
By Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Magazine
Sunday, October 17, 2004

It's the adjectives that seduce me at chef Todd Gray's modern American restaurant, where the pedigree of many ingredients is a source of pride. Thus the halibut is "wild," the beef strip loin is "organic," and the noodles are "house made." Haven't been in a while? The format at Equinox has switched from the standard a la carte to a tasting menu -- take your pick from three-, four- or six-course options and categories including pasta, fish and cheese. A single sweet diver scallop paired with a salad of grilled mushrooms and toasted walnuts yields quiet perfection. Pasta aficionados might head for the cheese-filled risotto fritters lapped with tomato butter, and carnivores will savor every slice of the grilled beef, set atop beans and ignited with a green peppercorn sauce. The garlic crust on the wild halibut is too damp, but the fish itself is cooked with care. The season dictates the dessert menu; late summer brought peaches in a croustade with lemon thyme gelato, and blueberries celebrated three different ways, including in a bite-size shortcake. Notice the room? Equinox is prettier than ever, thanks to a fanciful paint job that better shows off the shallot-shaped sconces.