The Florida Avenue Grill is no ordinary greasy spoon. It's been paying homage to diner food, Southern style, since 1944. Although lunch and dinner are served, if you want a real treat, come for breakfast. And know right off the bat that this is no place to bring your diet.

Luxuriate in the pools of butter at the center of the mound of light and tasty grits (you can get them as part of the chef's special, $6.95, or as a side order, $1.50). Enjoy one -- or two -- of the many varieties of pork product available. While the country ham is a bit stringy, the Virginia ham is a thick, huge slice -- flavorful without being overcured or oversalty. And the scrapple here is a masterwork (an order of three pieces is $1.95). The cooks have achieved that elusive scrapple yin-yang: crispy on the outside, tender without being mushy on the inside. And the zing of spiciness on the tongue is just right.

There seems to be a temperature problem with eggs: Whether fried or scrambled, they tend to be cold. But you'll forget that in a second if you taste a forkful of scrumptious French toast, break off a bite of perfect corn muffin or scoop up a mouthful of heavenly fried apples (a side is $1.50; it's a must-taste).

If you come at the prime Saturday morning breakfast hour, expect a wait -- and in crowded, sardine-can circumstances. But it's more than worth it. And if you can get out of bed early enough, you may run into Janet Reno. The cashier says the former A.G. comes in for breakfast nearly every Saturday morning she's in town. She's a woman of taste.

Breakfast Review

The District loves its half-smokes, but only a true Washingtonian could appreciate a half-smoke for breakfast. And that's what makes the Florida Avenue Grill special: Few restaurants wear their hometown roots more proudly than the Grill, as greasy as it is venerable.

The proximity to Howard University makes it a popular spot for students, but tables and counter seats are readily available most weekday mornings and street parking can be found with little effort. The coffee is diner-quality standard and plentiful; no meal is complete without the house biscuits, served with most entrees. And for a true soul food experience, order a side of the creamy grits with your pork chop or salmon cakes.

Menu sampler: half-smoke and two eggs, $7.45; hot cakes with bacon or sausage and two eggs, $8.50; sausage gravy, $5.50.

-- Alex Baldinger, April 11, 2012