Mexican, Tex-Mex
$$$$ ($14 and under)

Editorial Review

The restaurant seats plenty in its several rooms and indoor patio, the latter ideal for parties of 20 or more (group menus run from $12.95 to $24.95 per person). Darkened windows block out most natural light, lending a formal mood. Each room, the largest having an impressive hearth, is uniquely decorated with the sort of Southwestern art you couldn't give away at a yard sale, such as three-dimensional still lifes of cactus flowers. But the effect here is somehow classy.

The extensive menu, advertised as Tex-Mex, covers every conceivable burrito. The specialties and "chef's recommendations," however, come off the grill. Note: This grill is fueled with a combination of charcoal and mesquite. The hardwood smooths the petroleum edge off the charcoal, resulting in a gentle smoky flavor that does not overpower the food.

-- Rob Kunkle