2006 Fall Dining Guide By Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Magazine
Sunday, Oct. 15, 2006
The formica bar and its sky-blue stools whisk you back to another era, and so does the hands-on approach of Alvin and Adrienne Carter, the husband and wife who bought the place back in '67 and continue to run it as a home away from home. On any given day, you might find Al deveining shrimp from the comfort of a big Naugahyde booth, and Adrienne mixing drinks or welcoming regulars. "How's the pork chop?" a stranger asks me as he settles down for an early dinner at the counter. In truth, it's just okay, but I'm digging the dark greens and the pickle-laced potato salad I've ordered to go with the entree. And I know from experience that the fried-to-order chicken is worth the time it takes to dip the pieces in egg batter, dredge them in peppered flour and cook them so they're crisp, yet moist. The chicken's equal is the deftly fried and nicely juicy shrimp, but I could make a whole meal of the sides, which run to fresh-tasting coleslaw and hand-cut fries. When Al Carter strolls over to drop change in the jukebox, a customer begs, "Al, don't put me to sleep!" Not a chance.