Indique Heights

Reaching New Heights

By Eve Zibart
Washington Post Staff Writer
Friday, July 21, 2006

Sleek and chic, Indique Heights is a smart and accomplished addition to the rapidly upscaling retail and condo neighborhood around the Friendship Heights subway. Malls to the south of it, boutiques to the north (Gucci, Dior, Lauren, Louis Vuitton, Cartier and Jimmy Choo) -- here I am, stuck on the Metro with you. Lucky me.

Lucky not only because the food is so good but despite its transit-crossroad location, there are still times you might think you have Indique Heights to yourself, especially if you choose one of the outdoor tables on the mezzanine (though it seems likely that if the Metro escalators ever get greased and their screeching eases, more diners will dare it). Framed by planters of coleus, with sunset views that seep up suddenly over Western Avenue and a lyrical hanging sculpture of arched wood and steel cables like a ship waiting to be set down in water, it's one of the nicest new outdoor dining spaces in the area. And although its second-story location doesn't eliminate the noise of the traffic below, at least you don't have to look at it.

This accomplished new restaurant isn't truly unique because the menu is near-twin to that of its Cleveland Park parent, Indique, but it does its parent proud. Appropriate to the area, the style is a touch more business-like -- not so Raj-elegant as the original, which plays on the whitewash and carved wood theme. Instead, Indique Heights, formerly the site of Terrazza (and long before that, Tila's), takes advantage of the building's many angles and window views, with darker wood and spice tones, lower lounge chairs and cushion seats, and an exposed kitchen that makes clever use of another long side.

The kitchen is rapidly settling into a gratifying, and generous, groove. Almost any two appetizers, in fact, would make a light meal, especially since many come with little sides. Among the most attractive are the grilled scallops, a pair of lovely, large scallops elegantly set out over a drizzle of tamarind and "trio'd" with a small portion of lemon-zested rice molded into a matching disk; the vegetarian kathi roll, something like a whole-wheat paratha wrap with homemade paneer cheese and a fabulous roasted-tomato chutney (also available with chicken); mini-dosas, savory lentil-dough crepes, also veggie or chicken, with a trio of chutneys, including a tangy cranberry version and grated coconut sambal; and the soothing pea-stuffed aloo tiki, the Indian version of knishes.

Steamed mussels in a light coconut broth, fragrant with curry leaves, is a signature of the house; the sauce for the calamari ullarthiyathe, redolent of ginger, chilies and mustard seeds, would be worth ordering even if the squid weren't half so good. The tandoori king shrimp appetizer is a bit more problematic, since the charred shells inevitably embitter the flesh; the grilled spicy fish would make a better second-round entree substitute.

Here as at Indique, the chicken chettinad is marked "not for the faint-hearted," but it would be a shame to chicken out; the sauce of freshly toasted and ground Tellicherry peppercorns is an aromatic feast and as brisk and tangy as it is hot. Another traditionally spicy recipe, the Goanese shrimp curry, has a characteristically sweet-sour flavor (kokum fruit) and a hint of vinegar that expands its heat.

Indique Heights also replicates Indique's popular tikka makhani ("butter chicken"), though it didn't seem quite as arresting as the original, or at least the tomatoes didn't seem as tenderly reduced. Moyal (rabbit) korma, on the other hand, is a fine reminder that rabbit is the other white meat; stewed in an Indonesian-influenced braise of cashews, coconut, fennel seed and star anise, it's rich without being heavy.

When the menu says "spiced braised lamb shanks," plural, it means plural; one shank is intact, seated in glory amid the rich brown pieces of another portion. It's definitely more than one meal, which is great, since you can take the bone-in part home and get down to it in messy joy.

The ingredients in the vegetarian dishes are delicate but distinct, not mushy. Try the hyderabadi baingan, baby eggplant in a coat of many legumes -- sesame, cashews, peanuts -- cut with tamarind; the fine, nearly dry mango-dusted okra (bhindi do pyaza) ; or the paneer makhani (think "butter cheese"). And even if you don't order vegetarian, be sure to taste the lentils (dal) that come with most entrees; they're very good.

The breads at the original Indique are a highlight (the multilayered Ceylon paratha still levitates in memory), and these are good copies. The mint-studded pudina paratha, gilded with melted butter, shows the rimmed edges of concentric circles of dough, like tree rings, that have been pressed together for delicacy.

And if you can manage dessert (or split it), try the pistachio ice cream. It does that underestimated nut a real service.

Although the full menu is not available between lunch and dinner, appetizers and "light bites" are available all afternoon.