2011 Fall Dining Guide
By Tom Sietsema
Sunday, October 16, 2011

Spain is a rare splurge. That's why, out of all the Washington area restaurants created by chef Jose Andres, I find myself drawn most to his original tapas bar. No competitor comes close to offering the variety of Jaleo (80-plus dishes), and although the dining room is showing its years, breezy service and seasonal specials help forgive the need for a fresh coat of paint. Given the rich choices, no two visits are ever the same. My last meal found me at the blue-tiled bar, grazing on fried artichokes rising from a sauce of olives and anchovies; zesty house-made chorizo atop the smoothest of potato purees; and tender squid, black from a bath in its own ink and served with herbed rice: a luscious vision in ebony and ivory, washed back with white Rioja. I always save room for toasted bread slathered with crushed tomato; the snack sounds simple, but like so much of the food at Jaleo, it lands me in Barcelona for more than a few bites.