Jerry's Seafood

Jerry's is back. And moving on.

There was a time when Jerry's was just about the only restaurant with a reputation that extended outside the county. The restaurant dates its formal beginnings to 1983, although Jerry Gainey had been selling crab on this corner in Seabrook for several years before he took over what had been the neighborhood pub. It quickly became everyone's favorite place for crabs in Prince George's, despite the long lines that form every time the restaurant opens its doors.

Jerry sold the place in 2003 to a nephew and a longtime employee, and on subsequent visits I thought the quality of the famous "crab bomb" - 10 ounces of jumbo lump crab meat barely held together with mayonnaise and Old Bay seasoning - had slipped. But on my last visit, the bomb was once again about as close to perfection as crab meat can get. The cream of crab soup - with its own nice bite of Old Bay - and the milder crab bisque were equally good. The simple side dishes, including a great baked potato, creamy coleslaw and a crisp green salad, were just about the best they could be.

The crowning glory was what could only be described as a massive slice of homemade coconut cake, and an only slightly smaller slice of red velvet cake. They were delicious.

Now, the news: Jerry's is moving to a new location, 10,000 square feet in the Vista Gardens Marketplace at Route 450 and Martin Luther King Highway in Lanham. There will be three dining rooms and a carryout section. The move is scheduled for next month.

--Nancy Lewis, The Guide, April 26, 2007