Johnny Boy's Ribs

American, Barbecue
$$$$ ($14 and under)
Johnny Boy's Ribs photo
James M. Thresher/The Post
'

Editorial Review

By Nancy Lewis
Thursday, July 22, 2004

If you conjured the image of the ultimate rib shack, that place would be Johnny Boy's Ribs. Just off Route 301 (Crain Highway), Johnny Boy is a squat shack with a gaggle of (uncovered) picnic tables out back. The servers have a bit of attitude (don't even bother to ask what happened to the sit-down restaurant of the same name that was next door. It's closed; has been since January).

But it's worth enduring both a drive and any attitude for the pulled pork and ribs. The pork ($12.95 a pound) is nicely charred with a good meat taste that is only enhanced by the slightly sweet but still fiery hot barbecue sauce. The house specialty ribs ($22.75 a slab) are meaty and cooked just to the point at which the meat is pulling back slightly from the bone. The taste of smoke permeates the meat, and the sauce just makes it better.

The coleslaw -- shredded and crunchy but needing a bit of vinegar -- and potato salad -- nice chunks of potato with celery, red pepper and celery seed -- are wonderful accompaniments.