Tom Sietsema wrote about Kellari Taverna for a November 2009 First Bite column.

I noticed something recently at 1700 K St. NW that's been missing from there for several years: a buzzy place to eat.

It helped, of course, that the latest occupant at the downtown address, Kellari Taverna, squeezed a few VIPs into its dining room last Thursday afternoon, among them Supreme Court Justice Anthony Kennedy and the spiritual leader of the Orthodox Church, His All Holiness Ecumenical Patriarch Bartholomew. The latter was tucked away in the rear, shielded by a swarm of serious suits with earpieces.

But even on an earlier visit to the new Greek restaurant, an import from New York, I sensed I was in a place that would be sticking around awhile. It was more than the sight of filled seats in a honeyed dining room that prompted the thought. Wherever I looked, I saw details that spelled commitment and hospitality: the iced display of fish from far-flung waters, the shiny copper pots dangling in the visible kitchen, a platter of house-baked Greek cookies near the entrance. (Help yourself.)

The generosity extends to the portions, which are huge. "Chips" of crisp fried eggplant and zucchini teeter high on their plate, and meaty lamb riblets would look at home on Wilma Flintstone's table. Order spanakopita, and two big, flaky, spinach-fattened crescents follow. Fish is sold by the pound; sea bream is snowy, hot and simply seasoned with briny capers, lemon juice and oregano.

Then there's the restaurant's name, which translates as "wine cellar" in Greek. Kellari Taverna stocks more than 100 labels from its source of inspiration. Even if you beg off getting dessert, a waiter might ignore your wishes and deliver some sweets with your bill.

K Street dead as a dining destination? Not if Kellari Taverna can help it.

Dinner entrees, $22.95-$37.95.

(Nov. 11, 2009)