Editors' pick

Kotobuki

Japanese, Sushi
$$$$ ($14 and under)
'

Editorial Review

2006 Fall Dining Guide
By Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Magazine
Sunday, Oct. 15, 2006

"Cheap" and "sushi" are words best avoided together; high-quality fish tends to be expensive, after all. One exception to my rule of thumb is this second-story Japanese shoebox, where chef Hisao Abe offers nearly 20 kinds of sushi for a buck apiece. Among the finds are buttery toro, rich glazed eel, mellow yellowtail and creamy lobster (salad) -- each slipped on a finger of rice and each tasting fresh. Exceptions, such as tired sea urchin, are rare. Over the seasons, I've come to appreciate the ritual sameness of each visit. Ding! goes a bell whenever anyone passes through the ground-floor entrance. A soundtrack of the Beatles plays nonstop. Invariably, the waitresses are gracious, and the sake is poured into square lacquered boxes. Invariably, I wish Kotobuki were closer to my home.