2005 Fall Dining Guide By Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Magazine
Sunday, October 16, 2005
For years, I've been driving past this two-story, family-run steakhouse on my way to fresh fish at the nearby O'Learys in Annapolis. Here's what I recently discovered I had been missing: a warm welcome at the door. Delicious clams casino. Terrific meat -- Lewnes' serves only U.S. prime beef, revered for its tenderness and marbling, and grills its steaks and chops under super-hot broilers, after which they're topped with butter. The result? A succulent porterhouse steak, and one of the juiciest prime ribs, stoked with fresh horseradish, around. The primal joy is interrupted by gloppy creamed spinach but buoyed by crisp, bracelet-size onion rings and fine red wine. And the waiters in their white jackets couldn't be more accommodating. Want to split the signature Greek salad? No problem (and no extra charge, either).
Can't decide between the Lyonnaise and french-fried potatoes? Your server is happy to bring you a plate with both for the same price. More than many restaurants, Lewnes' lets us have it our way.
Just across the bridge from Annapolis in Eastport is a homegrown steakhouse with
the feel of a speak-easy and prime steaks second to none. The main dining room is up a narrow stairway and features booths that lend it a secretive air. The wine list is long and impressive and includes verticals (selections from many successive years) for more than 20 wines. You can spend as little as $35 for a bottle or as much as $1,000. The portions are large, the welcome is generous - it's a combination that's hard to beat.