Just in time to combat the onslaught of fattening holiday fare, an oasis of healthful options has arrived downtown.

Annie Leconte opened Litestars, a "healthier quick bistro," last month, along with her husband, Didier, and son, Eric. Trained to cook by her mother and armed with a bachelor's degree in economics and an MBA in marketing, the native of Normandy, France, decided that what she really wanted to do was teach: not with a lesson plan, but with food to nurture an increasingly harried clientele.

Yes, salads are on the menu. But so are savory tarts and uncommonly good soups. If the thought of French cuisine calls to mind only I'll-worry-about-it-tomorrow decadence, think again. Leconte has created a heart-friendly yet satisfying menu of low-sodium, low-fat, low-cholesterol and low-sugar dishes for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Nutritional information and gluten-free choices are posted.

Those salads are indeed light, yet they are more than just a pile of greens.

"People these days are being transformed into rabbits!" Leconte says. So her creations are thoughtfully composed of grains, dried fruits, modest amounts of protein and bright dressings. We loved the al dente soybeans and moist chicken dressed with a cider vinaigrette ($7.20 as an entree, which includes three additional toppings, such as beets, walnuts and low-fat feta cheese; or $2.05 per four ounces).

There are also wonderful Soupdrinks, so named for their smooth texture and served in cups. Our current favorite is the seasonally appropriate Cinderella, made with pumpkin and yellow onions (12 ounces, $2.75; 16 ounces, $3.65; 20 ounces, $4.55).

Possibly the most French offering of all is the personal-size tartlets, whose crusts are made with whole-wheat flour and palm oil. Filled with delicate bits of diced tomato, eggplant and red bell pepper, the ratatouille version tastes satisfyingly decadent ($4.25). The salmon and leek tartlet, however, was on the dry side ($6.35). Better is the juicy ground bison, mixed with tomatoes and a secret house blend of spices ($5.30).

To wash it all down, wines by the glass are available ($5.50-$9.75). "A glass is good for you," Leconte says. Soda is not on the menu, but homemade lemonade is ($3.80).

Dessert? Mais oui. The apple tartlet, holding a pinwheel of thinly sliced fruit, is an apropos ending ($2.35) and, at 240 calories, is completely regret-free. Or, as Leconte says, it "leaves you feeling light enough to fly to the stars."

Catherine Zuckerman (Good to Go, Dec. 1, 2010)