The steaks are a signature, but then it gets shaky

By Tim Carman
Wednesday, Feb. 22, 2012

Self-referential steak joints: the next new trend in Arlington?

In January, Michael Landrum paid homage to his own history by opening Retro Ray's, a small, bistro-style establishment located next to Ray's: The Steaks. The operation wants to give diners an approximation of the Ray's experience, circa the mid-2000s, pre-empire.

About two months earlier, though, veteran restaurateur Michael Sternberg resurrected his own steakhouse history by opening Market Tavern in the old Harry's Tap Room space in Clarendon, a mere half-mile from Landrum's wet kiss to his past. Sternberg's relationship to steakhouses in the District stretches back to the early 1980s, when he opened Morton's in Georgetown and later launched his own signature grilled meat emporium, Sam & Harry's.

Despite its publike name, Market Tavern has a split personality: Its downstairs "Tavern" space, all cozy with drop lights and a fireplace, is more gastropub, serving 26 beers on tap and an assortment of small plates, burgers and sandwiches. Upstairs in the "Chophouse," the restaurant assumes an open, casual steakhouse persona, somewhat like Ray's, though with more pedigree in the kitchen. Chef Richard Beckel worked not only with Sternberg at yet another of his former steakhouses, the Caucus Room on Ninth Street NW, but also with Michel Richard at Citronelle.

I'll take Ray's (the Steaks, Retro or otherwise) over Market Tavern nine times out of 10. My wet-aged Delmonico at the latter was cooked to a succulent medium-rare, as ordered, and seasoned well enough to bring out its meaty charms. That, sadly, was the highlight of my experiences here; everything else I sampled had flaws, including minor ones, such as the overcooked "Gold Standard" burger topped with bone marrow, and the downright criminal, in the form of a casserole Chophouse Paella that came with a clump of rice so mushy it was practically congee.

Appetizers don't offer much comfort, either. The lobster spring rolls arrived shimmering with grease and studded with the tiniest nubbin of overcooked crustacean. Lobster was the last thing on my mind as I chomped on these vaguely Asian rolls. At least the medjool dates, stuffed with blue cheese and wrapped with bacon, smacked of the starring ingredient, even if they were too sweet by half before a dose of the moldy curds.

The key to a successful dinner at Market Tavern would be to aim for the center of the menu, where the list of steak and chop options can be found, and to pair your meat with one of the 76 wines by the glass (available even in the "big glass" format). Call it the KISS principle: Keep It Steak, Stupid.