Tom Sietsema wrote about Masala Country in December 2008 as part of a longer story about cheap eats.
Bollywood musicals light up a TV screen. Lassi appears to be the beverage of choice, judging from all the yogurt drinks on the tables, which are dominated by Indian faces. Masala Country exhibits signs of promise even before you get a chance to read the menu, posted on a wall in the back near a counter.
Come your turn, you're glad the young clerk is patient, because you have some questions. "Fusion," after all, is not an adjective a diner encounters in many Indian restaurants. But owner Pummy Sahni is giving his audience a taste of what he says trendy restaurants in his native Delhi have begun serving: Chinese, Mexican and American accents on traditional Indian dishes.
Here, that might translate into a savory pancake of ground rice and lentils, or dosa, spread with tomato, cilantro, mayonnaise and red chili flakes. Griddled to order and the size of a hubcap, this "red chilly" dosa ($9) is one of the top sellers. Bring a friend to share the zesty pleasure, which comes with a "filling" of potatoes, peas and onions, and chutneys in two flavors, tomato-ginger and coconut.
(Dec. 7, 2008)