Mei's Offers a Dish for Every Taste

By Julia Beizer
Washington Post Staff Writer
Friday, June 19, 2009

At a glance: "Join the Birthday Club," beckons a sign on the door at Mei's Asian Bistro in Arlington. Just inside the entrance, a white board informs patrons about Thursday night jazz performances in June and new cocktail specials. Not all neighborhood pan-Asian places make such an effort at entertainment; Mei's is angling to be more than a spot for quick carryout.

The most defining decor detail in the cavernous, 150-seat restaurant is a 30-foot-long print stretching along the back wall that depicts revelers at a banquet. The joyful party scene comes from a piece that owner Su Ly, 44, picked up in China many years ago and had transferred to vinyl when he opened the restaurant in 2007. Ly, who moved to the area from China at age 13, says the artwork fits his style, as he's often the life of the party.

George Mason University students and families with small children are frequent customers at the restaurant. This month, they've been having dinner outside, on a 50-seat sidewalk patio shaded by an overhang.

On the menu: Don't come to Mei's famished; the extensive menu can take time to peruse. Chinese and Japanese dishes make up the majority of the list, and Mei's also offers a slew of vegetarian plates made with tofu, gluten and other stand-ins for meat.

The Chinese entrees use sauce judiciously, to great effect. Taste the flavor and crunchy texture of General Tso's chicken instead of simply a sticky coating. Mei's Emperor Lamb combines chewy hunks of meat with carrot slivers, asparagus tips, mushroom caps and a simple brown sauce. The Kung Pao "Chicken" (a vegetarian version, made with soybean protein) was coated with just enough of the spicy dressing and topped with a generous handful of peanuts. These entrees are served with a choice of brown, white or fried rice. The lo mein I ordered was fine, served with large juicy shrimp and crunchy slices of celery, but I found the sauced options more appealing.

Salmon, eel and yellowtail rolls appear on the Japanese side of the menu, along with teriyaki entrees and miso soup. The big maki rolls were the most alluring, and not just because of their cute names. Take the Crunchy Tuna Hidden Dragon roll, a monstrosity filled with shrimp tempura and topped with spicy tuna. The Crush on You Maki was another massive creation: Yellowtail and avocado are tucked inside the roll, while eel and crunchy almonds rest on top.

The lobster salad appetizer tasted like a New England lobster roll with an Asian accent, a cluster of tail meat served with avocado and seaweed salad. Crispy fried pork dumplings were another satisfying appetizer option.

At your service: The waiters are endearing here, if a little bumbly. Ask what's in a dish or drink, and they'll probably have to get back to you after rushing off to the kitchen for an explanation.

What to avoid: Listless steamed dumplings lacked the punch of their fried counterparts. Desserts were generally underwhelming.

Wet your whistle: Tiki cocktails are a specialty here. Ly acts as head bartender, and his version of a Singapore Sling is worth trying. Lychee-tinged martinis, Blue Hawaiians and mai tais are also available, as are beer, wine and coffee. During happy hour at the bar, from 4 to 7 p.m. daily, draft beers are $2.50 and sushi is $1.25 a piece.

Bottom line: There's nothing transcendent about Mei's offerings, but the service is prompt and friendly and the standards are cooked solidly. Besides, with a menu this long, there just has to be a dish for everyone, even if it takes a while to find it.