Mikaku Sushi Taro

Asian, Japanese, Sushi
$$$$ ($15-$24)
'

Editorial Review

From Tom Sietsema's Annual Dining Guide, Fall 2002:

A playful spirit distinguishes this sushi vendor from a wave of others. At his small marble counter, chef Yoshinori Katsuyama likes to joke around with his customers; the menu, while rounding up the usual suspects -- tempura, noodle soups, green tea ice cream -- also highlights what it calls "Japanese tapas." These little appetizer plates are some of the best reasons to drop by. Picture sliced octopus with ponzu sauce, tasty roast duck brushed with sweet soy sauce, or maybe tuna tartare, as red as raw beef and spiked with chili flakes and scallions. The sushi is high-quality, the homemade dumplings are a must-try. I'd look elsewhere for a teriyaki fix, but not for a comfortable setting. This one is serene despite its size; what look like paintings actually are framed silk scarves, and lucky are the parties that get the private room, with its pillow seating and sunken floor. Does the name ring a bell? Sushi Taro of Dupont Circle is a part-owner of this suburban pleasure.