Morton's, The Steakhouse

American, Seafood, Steakhouse
$$$$ ($25-$34)
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Editorial Review

The black awning with that title in its signature Morton's font is unmistakable -- you'll know you've found your way to this premier steakhouse even if it seems somehow out of place without the bustle of downtown.

In fact, there's an elegant calm about this Morton's location -- to get there, you enter an office building (which is deafeningly silent on weekend nights), head down two flights of stairs, then open a brown door. Suddenly, as if that office building were just a dream, you're in the lobby of an exquisite restaurant -- getting here feels a little like sneaking in the back way a la "Good Fellas," which makes it all the more exciting.

The clientele are dressed in all their finery, some even in tuxes, as they slide up to their tables and prepare to sample all the porterhouse, filet mignon or Maine lobster their stomachs (and wallets) can handle. But as at other Morton's, one gets the sense that everyone here can more than afford to lay in this lap of luxury.

-- Jen Chaney