First came Marco Di Giuseppe's hot sauces and salsas, locally manufactured and beginning to garner acclaim in the fiery-food world. Now they're providing piquant flavor profiles at Marco and Robin Di Giuseppe's friendly sandwich shop and carryout, open since January near the Prime Outlets mall in Hagerstown.

Mr. D's is about a 1 1/2 -hour drive from Washington, which allows time to build up a sufficient appetite. Arrive hungry, because the portions are generous and many menu items are worth investigating on the spot: ribs, wings, overstuffed sandwiches and soups. First, sample some of the 15 or so distinct sauces that are used to marinate or add depth, such as Spicy Garlic Parmesan, Caribbean Jerk, Mango Habanero, Extreme Smoky BBQ, Tequila Lime and the new Tequila Beer Medium.

The Montycello ($5.95) signature sandwich is a fine place to get rolling: a smooth and creamy pulled-pork sandwich made with both mild and smoky barbecue sauces, served on a kaiser bun with very good coleslaw. While we waited for an order of 10 wings ($6.50) bathed in our choice of sauce (Honey BBQ), several customers ordered the Romatoga wing-and-riblet combo ($7.45), served with beach fries, and the Milla, a turkey Reuben on grilled rye bread with house-made sauerkraut ($5.95); both looked hefty enough to warrant a pile of napkins and a take-home box.

Other standouts include the house-made potato chips ($1.50, when available) and the cups of chili ($2 and $4), packed with ground chuck, black and red beans and Marco's award-winning Roasted Vegetable Salsa. Without access to a barbecue pit, Di Giuseppe makes up for lost smoke by marinating the pork baby back ribs in one of his sauces for two days. They come out of the oven tender and falling off the bone (half-slab $11.95, full slab $18.95, choice of sauce).

With proper pacing on the part of a customer, the icing on the cake can be chocolate -- specifically, on Robin's own chocolate chip pudding cake ($2 a slice), which is warmed on request.

-- Bonnie S. Benwick (September 26, 2007)