Editors' pick

Obelisk

Italian
$$$$ ($35 and up)
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Editorial Review

2012 Fall Dining Guide
By Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Magazine
Sunday, Oct. 21, 2012

Pace yourself. Five courses might not sound like a lot, but the antipasti alone amount to a dinner party. Arancini with cores of braised duck, dreamy burrata lashed with olive oil, and squid rings mixed with green beans were among the snacks that launched my recent $75 “menu complete" at Peter Pastan's long-running Italian gem. As always, I found the opening and closing plates -- the pastas and the desserts -- to be more impressive than the entrees. Saffron tagliolini with sweet shrimp and fresh tarragon, and fig tart with chewy pistachio ice cream, will have you dreaming about them for days afterward; rare squab, on the other hand, is best recalled for its skinny filet beans. The narrow townhouse that doesn't bother with signage could use a refresh, but I admire the quietly smart service. Ultimately, Obelisk is a monument to good taste.