Old Glory BBQ

American, Barbecue, Southern/Soul
$$$$ ($15-$24)
'

Editorial Review

By Nancy Lewis
Thursday, July 22, 2004

Elvis has not left the building at Old Glory All-American Bar-B-Que in Georgetown. He's presiding over the downstairs dining room, and his bust adorns the bar. And, of course, that is the tail end of a 1959 Chevy Impala impaled over the front door.

Despite the theme-park atmosphere, the pulled pork ($11.95 a pound) would make Elvis proud. The large shreds of meat are moist and juicy and nicely pink. The conundrum is what sauce to choose: Memphis or Savannah, Carolina or Kansas City, etc., etc. One thing is for certain: You'll need more than the thimble-size amount provided of each.

The ribs ($19.95 a rack) are basted with the not-too-sweet Memphis sauce, but they are cooked too long; the meat falls off the bone. At least they aren't mush, and they taste pretty good. The slaw -- shreds of green cabbage, red onion, carrot and parsley -- is lightly dressed with a creamy rather than savory sauce. The potatoes for the salad are overcooked, too, and dill pickle -- yes, dill pickle -- is the main accent.