Paisano's, loosely translated from Italian, means "countryman's." The diverse menu includes 10 Italian dinners, nine salad entrees, eight "gourmet" pizzas, plus a variety of calzones and strombolis. Prices range from $3.25 for a Caesar salad to $15.95 for a large pizza with the works.

Influenced by a Lebanese father, an Italian mother and years of working with various chefs, the owners developed Mediterranean pizza, chicken shawarma, Greek pizza and a "Fair Lakes Special" sub with soppressata, mortadella and provolone. The Mediterranean pizza is an original creation and not necessarily Mediterranean,but it is a house specialty and a real treat. The crust is hand-tossed and chewy beneath the cheese but crispy and golden brown at the back of the wedge. The chicken is marinated for three days in a seasoned garlic butter so its taste stands out. Greek pizza is "basically a gyro on a pizza," with gyro meat, feta cheese, black olives, tomato and onion. For the same prices, Santa Fe pizza has cheddar cheese and chicken. All the pizzas thrive on Paisano's crust, and none are so gourmet that they are trying to be health food. This is the countryman's pizza.

--Will Kuhns