A sense of calm permeates this place. The dining room is tastefully decorated (accentuated during dinner hours with soft lighting and candles flickering on linen-covered tables) and exudes intimacy. Not surprisingly, Pilin Thai is a prime spot for handholding couples. Laughter and the sounds of quiet conversation echo through the long, narrow dining room. Savory Thai specialties, including pad gra grow talay (shrimp, scallops and mussels sauteed with fresh hot peppers), gai pad preow wan (sweet and sour fried chicken), and talay gra tiem grob (jumbo shrimp and scallops sauteed with garlic), go for $7.95 to $12.95. Aside from romantic couples, the place draws a large business clientele as well as groups of friends. Floral paintings splashed with color decorate the walls; traditional Thai music fills the air. Service is prompt and unobtrusive, adding to the relaxing atmosphere. To wrap up the meal, try the sticky rice with Thai custard, a mixture of salty and mildly sweet flavors, for a surprisingly satisfying dessert.

-- Louie Estrada