The deceptively modest Pollo Inka is pounding out classic Central and South American fare: pupusas, the corn dough dumplings that provide the pat-pat-pat percussion of the family kitchen; a fisherman's dream of shellfish soup; ceviche; marinated pork and seasoned shrimp; lomo salta (grilled steak strips with tomato, onions and garlic sauce); tripe; cilantro-stewed beef; Salvadorean-style chicken stew; Peruvian-style broiled chicken; and papas a la huanciana (steamed potatoes covered in garlicky cheese).
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