Warm butter and fresh toppings fill crisp roasted potatoes at this Penn Quarter lunch destination with a decidedly different twist.

Potato Valley Cafe, on E Street NW, looks like many of its speedy-sandwich-shop counterparts: Employees work behind metal bins that hold meats, vegetables and cheeses.

But instead of being slapped between two slices of bread, the toppings here are stuffed into a steaming-hot potato that has been roasted in a convection oven and spread with butter and spices. Each order is sprinkled with roasted onions and served with cucumber, lettuce, peppers and mango on the side.

Antonia Bright, 27, opened the D.C. location of the franchise two years ago. The former accountant was a customer at the Annapolis shop, where she frequently took lunch breaks and thought about shifting her focus from finance to food.

Bright said the founder of the franchise, which also has a store in Las Vegas, got the idea for Potato Valley Cafe after visiting a similar shop in Sweden.

The D.C. location includes one menu item from its Swedish inspiration: a ham and cheddar potato with blue cheese or ranch dressing ($7.50). Most other offerings are based on ingredients popular in the Americas, such as Texas salsa and Cuban and Caribbean chicken.

Ernie Porter, who works in public relations in a federal job, was munching on the daily special, a bacon, cheddar and avocado potato, at one of the shop's few indoor tables. (Outdoor seating is available.) He said summer interns in his office discovered the spot two months ago and spread the word. Given the glut of sandwich, burger and pizza places in the neighborhood, Porter said, Potato Valley is a welcome change.

Putting his fork down on the potato leftovers lining the black-and-white-checkered paper, he added, "This fills me up."

Vegetarian options include a garlic or plain butter baked potato with cheddar ($6.50), an artichoke mix potato with cottage cheese ($7.50) and a vegetarian curry potato ($7.50). We tried the vegetarian spinach, feta and roasted garlic potato as well as a "south of the valley" variety with corn, mango, lime, black beans, peppers and garlic butter (both $7.50). The spinach and feta blend was served chilled, but the steamy potato soon warmed the topping. The corn, mango and black beans were refreshing.

For those looking for a veggie-free variety, the chili and cheddar potato won't disappoint. It features heaps of cheese and hearty chili topped with blue corn chips ($7.95).

As a lighter alternative, Bright offers salads (and sandwiches and wraps, though you won't find them on the menu) for customers who worry that if they eat a potato, they'll "fall asleep at their desk."

-- Catherine Cheney (Good to Go, Sept. 2, 2009)