Pulcinella

Italian, Pizza
$$$$ ($14 and under)
Pulcinella photo
(Kathryn Norwood)
'

Editorial Review

Pizzas are cooked in a wood-burning oven.

The menu offers a choice of ravioli, fettuccine or gnocchi, served with an assortment of sauces -- pesto, Alfredo and bolognese. Our advice: Go for the gnocchi. Chef Giuseppe Pansini has been making potato dough into gnocchi for more than 20 years, and his experience shows. The handmade gnocchi are light pillows of goodness. As for topping, the pesto is a particularly good choice in the summer, coating the gnocchi with herbs and oil, but the sauces are all worth trying. The dish is served "per due," for two, so be generous and bring a friend.

-- Stephanie Witt Sedgwick (Aug. 2, 2006)