Queen Makeda

$$$$ ($14 and under)

Editorial Review

"Remember when your mother cooked for you at home? That's the taste you'll find here," says customer Mesafint Beyene, who works in the food and beverage department at the Washington Hilton. Beyene, who was dining at the bar on a recent afternoon, is partial to Makeda's doro wat -- the spicy chicken stew that is Ethiopia's national dish. "I've tried them all, every restaurant, in the six years I've been here," he says. "But here the food is never mass produced or too hot and spicy." -- Walter Nicholls