2009 Fall Dining Guide

By Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Staff Writer
Sunday, Oct. 18, 2009

I'm always comparing Rasika with every other Indian restaurant I try, and the competition always comes up short. That's not to say there isn't good Indian food around town. Rather, Rasika, in Penn Quarter, is in a class all its own, jumping from 3 1/2 to four stars this year. While other places are content to dish out the usual samosas and biryani, this kitchen expands diners' horizons with clams in a green pool of cilantro, grated coconut and green chilies, and red kidney beans tarted up with rhubarb chutney. Vikram Sunderam, the gifted chef, treats vegetarians like royalty, although even kebab eaters might swoon over a dainty stack of grilled eggplant slices sandwiching ginger-and-turmeric-seasoned potatoes, the tiny tower ringed with a sweet-hot crushed peanut sauce. Prettier still: crisp asparagus rolled in bright yellow bands made from gram flour. The edible cigars ("cannoli," jokes Sunderam) are sparked with mustard seeds and mint sauce and prove immensely satisfying. The setting is as vivid as the food. The soft yellows and oranges on the walls mirror those on your plate, and the source of many of the savory snacks is a handsome open griddle decorated with a collection of spices. Rasika's allure extends to its service, which is swift and pampering, and liquids that keep up with the latest fashions. Mouthwatering news for home cooks: The chef's sauces are available for purchase at the restaurant.