2012 Fall Dining Guide
By Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Magazine
Sunday, Oct. 21, 2012
The kid brother is quickly catching up with the original. From the start, in March, I knew it was only a matter of time before Rasika West End became the hot Indian ticket that has long been Rasika in Penn Quarter. If I close my eyes in the new restaurant, attended to by chef Manish Tyagi, I could be dining across town. The Mumbai native's herby chicken kebab, peppery crab stacked on phyllo and smoky black lentils all pop with flavor. Open my eyes, and the turquoise booths in the shape of ceremonial carriages and raised “library" remind me that Rasika West End is no copycat but a design all its own. Not every dish sings. Lamb roganjosh is routine, and desserts could use a dash of imagination. But there's so much that's so compelling -- pass the asparagus pancakes and mint paratha, please -- that I almost welcome knowing what I can skip and still feast on one of the best menus in town.
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