2012 Fall Dining Guide
By Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Magazine
Sunday, Oct. 21, 2012
Baker-in-chief Brian Noyes is a friend and former colleague, but I'd be remiss if I didn't share the many charms of his Esso filling station-cum-bakery, easy to spot from the road given the cheery red truck parked out front (Noyes bought the 1954 Ford from Tommy Hilfiger). Enticing excuses to make the trip to Warrenton from anywhere start with the display of croissants, cookies and muffins behind glass, continue on the shelves (the granola is awesome) and call from the small refrigerator stocked with grab-and-go sandwiches. Chicken salad, hinting of curry and crisp with apple and walnuts, spills out of harvest wheat bread; grade-A meatloaf slips between slices of fabulous rosemary-veined foccacia, a reminder that bread is half the art of a well-made sandwich. Soups are less compelling, and there's just one wooden table next to the kitchen to accommodate customers who might want to sit down to eat their Shenandoah Valley apple cake with maple glaze. That's okay by me, though. The view from one of the two benches out front, capturing a church steeple, offers an old-time taste of small-town USA.
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