The Buzz: From the team behind the Arlington staple Whitlow's comes a more upscale version of that neighborhood gathering place. Diners and drinkers alike are welcome here. High tables surround a long, stately bar that was lively even on a recent Monday night. White tablecloths, classy wood paneling and artful floral arrangements in the restaurant's dining areas set a subtler, more intimate mood.

On Your Plate: Consider it Southern-style cooking with an upscale twist. The moist and juicy pork chop in a three-apple relish is a spice-crusted treat, but other dishes a friend and I tried on a recent visit weren't quite as good. The tuna lollipops, smeared with a melange of sesame seeds and sitting atop an Asian barbeque sauce, seemed out of place on a Southern-inspired menu. The lemon cayenne aioli on the Southern fried catfish was light and tangy, but even its springy flavor couldn't uplift a heavy, soggy catfish. On a sweet note, the cheesecake topped with a raspberry sauce was a highlight of the night.

Nice to Know: Curved booths can fit a group of six comfortably. On a recent visit, a group of women were heard audibly enjoying a wine-filled girls' night out in one. The wine list doesn't offer too many selections, by the glass, but the pours were generous.

Price Points: Appetizers are in the $9 to $12 range and "Features" are $15 to $27. These prices were on par with other area restaurants featuring these sorts of fancy and inventive flavor combinations, but the $100 tab for two didn't seem worth it to us for a dinner we weren't wild about. Appetizers and drinks at the bar may be your best bet after dark. Brunch, with dishes ranging between $9 and $16, may be a better value.

--Julia Beizer (March 13, 2008)