By Nancy Lewis
Thursday, July 22, 2004

Rocklands Barbeque and Grilling Co. has been a hit since it first opened its doors in Glover Park in 1990. The storefront has about a dozen seats, a wooden screen door and a big bowl of peanuts on the lone table -- a little diversion for the hordes waiting to place or pick up an order. It's got all the hokey signs that people think southern barbecue places are supposed to have and a wall of hot sauces for the truly brave.

Real wood burns behind the grill where the meats get their finishing shot of heat. The pulled pork is chopped into small bits and anointed with the restaurant's own sauce and is worth all the attention it gets. Smoke permeates the meat, enhancing the flavor without drying it out. The sauce has a good, spicy taste. But other items have been a disappointment on recent visits. The ribs were fatty and overcooked, and the Rocklands versions of coleslaw and potato salad were almost inedible. The coleslaw is chunks of cabbage and carrots and peas. Don't bother. Ditto for the potato salad, sliced red potatoes that were entirely bland.