Editors' pick

Rural Society

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Editorial Review

In search of a formula to fill tables along with beds, the Loews Madison turned to Philadelphia-based celeb chef Jose Garces, who looked to Argentina when designing the hotel’s latest restaurant. An elaborate, $20,000 wood-fired grill bridges two handsome dining rooms and initiates some of the best eating on the menu. Out of the embers come beets for a delicious salad and eggplant for a mousse made tangy with goat cheese. Off the grate fly cuts of beef — grass-fed rib-eye from Uruguay, thinly cut short ribs — that rely on little more than salt, pepper and burning wood for their flavor. The staff of life is the stuff to like, starting with a generous bread basket accompanied by vibrant spreads and embracing fugazza, a pizza that resembles a cross between deep-dish and focaccia. Like those pies, the very good pastas at Rural Society reflect the history of Italian immigration to Argentina in the 19th century. Looking for a side of privacy? Request a one-table “niche” facing the exhibition grill.

2014 review

At the Loews Madison, Argentine divine

The recently revealed restaurant in the Loews Madison Hotel does an impressive job of convincing diners they’re not eating below hundreds of beds.