Editors' pick

Sisters' Sandwiches & Such

$$$$ ($14 and under)

Editorial Review

The "such" in the name of this new Olney carryout might refer to the bright homemade cotton aprons, painted vintage furniture and wall plaques hand-lettered with whimsical aphorisms found throughout the shop, all for sale. Or it might refer to a thick, warm-from-the-oven cookie with melting chocolate chips, an irresistible postscript to an overstuffed sandwich.

Forty-something sisters Kim Carlson and Tammy Prestipino, who grew up in Washington state, opened the sandwich shop in Olney's historic Higgins Tavern in June. "We're lifelong scavengers and always wanted to open a boutique," says Carlson. "When the building became available, it was calling our name, but we knew we couldn't just do furniture."

So the two designed a menu inspired by friends and relatives, who have been rewarded with sandwich (and salad) fame. There's Uncle Russell's Egg Salad, for example (their brother's favorite sandwich), and Trish the Dish's Roasted Veggie: red peppers, zucchini and onions with a slather of basil pesto and mozzarella on grilled sourdough.

The dozen sandwich options are priced from $6.99 to $8.99 and hit most cravings: roast beef with havarti and horseradish mayonnaise; a toasted baguette with Genoa salami, capicola ham, provolone and pepperoni; and the Stacked Stacie (we're not askin'), sliced turkey, red onion and avocado on multigrain bread. Each sandwich comes with a small side of red cabbage slaw laced with cranberries, a sweet and crunchy alternative to a handful of chips.

While you're waiting for your order, you can explore the "Such," which includes stained-glass window ornaments, photo frames and reclaimed furniture painted in bright hues.

And there's more Such: Caesar salad ($6.50; $9 with shredded chicken), Cobb salad and taco salad (each $8.50), the latter with chicken chili, Jack cheese, tortilla chips and sour cream. Vinny's Salad ($8.50) has Granny Smith apples, cubes of smoked Gouda and toasted pecans tossed with mixed greens. There's usually chicken noodle soup and a soothing white chicken chili, made with white beans, cauliflower and zucchini (cup, $3.99; bowl, $5.99). A warm brie appetizer with raspberry jam is served with a baguette: an upgrade from standard sandwich shop fare, as are the wine and beer for those who choose to eat in. Those freshly baked cookies cost $1.75 each.

During the day, the eponymous sisters are more than likely in the kitchen or behind the counter. And if they're not at the shop, they might just be at home, painting another table or picture frame.

- Martha Thomas, July 2010