There is nothing on the outside of this general store and service station to indicate the glories within. But past the refrigerator with plastic containers of night crawlers, the old-time cooler packed with glass bottles of Coke and the shelves of crackers and candy bars is the real glory of the place: the Sunshine burger. The tiny lunch counter has five aging chrome and vinyl stools, and a half-dozen chairs are pulled up to a linoleum-topped kitchen table. On the other side of the counter, two women work the grill, turning out perhaps the best hamburgers in the county.
These are giant half-pound beauties, patted out by hand and cooked to order, topped with your choice of embellishments -- raw or cooked onions, Swiss, provolone or American cheese, tomato and lettuce, mustard, ketchup or mayonnaise -- and then placed on a good-tasting kaiser roll. Be sure to get it cut in half, or it will be too much to handle.
The kitchen also turns out breakfast, starting at 5 a.m. on weekdays. The place shuts down by 6 p.m. on weekdays and 5 p.m. on weekends. But it's the burgers that construction crews and men in expensive suits line up for, and wait their turn with the locals.
-- Nancy Lewis (April 26, 2007)