Taj of India

In the evening, votive lights on the tables lend a cozy glow to this Georgetown eatery, which has been operating on M Street since 2002. There are a few paintings on the walls and some plants here and there, but the real draw is the low-cost, high-spice Indian fare, with plenty of options for vegetarians.

Tomato soup is a far cry from the Campbell's sort. Cumin and lime add a surprising tingle to the appetizer. Chicken kebabs are perfectly juicy, tinted with the aroma of the clay oven. A subtly sweet cream sauce dresses the tender meat in the lamb chops masala dish. Once the meat is gone, we're tempted to take home the leftover dressing and an order of garlic nan. The servers seem too eager at times to push a second glass of wine, but ask for their advice and they'll lead you to dishes that suit your spice tolerance.

-- Julia Beizer (Feb. 19, 2010)