Editors' pick

Teaism

Asian
$$$$ ($14 and under)
'

Editorial Review

Tom Sietsema wrote about Teaism's breakfast as part a longer story in November 2008.

The Teaism in Dupont Circle is the oldest and funkiest in the local mini-chain; the shop and cafe in Penn Quarter is the youngest and largest. The Teaism closest to the center of power in the city is the one near the White House, which is where I found myself recently, debating whether to get scrambled eggs with tea-smoked salmon or chicken sausage with nan and raita.

The choice wasn't easy. Both compositions are delectable. Those eggs are savory with fresh cilantro and crisp green peppers, their salmon sidekick a luxurious accent; that sausage is scored and sweet with apple, better for the grilled Indian bread that completes the package. So I did the only sensible thing and got both, washing back the feast with a big mug of hot apple cider.

The dining area is small, with some tables situated up front, next to windows, and others separated by glass dividers, affording a bit of privacy. Walls of mint make for a soothing backdrop, and paper collages underscore the salon's Asian bent. I'm too full to think about adding a scone or one of the eatery's signature salty oat cookies to my breakfast today, but I pick up a few to take home. (Teaism tomorrow, too!) As I look around at the well-dressed clientele, I can understand why the staff refers to this branch as "the suits and pantyhose Teaism."

Breakfast served 7:30 a.m. to 11:30 a.m. Monday through Friday. Dishes $4 to $9.

(Nov. 30, 2008)