Thai Coast

$$$$ ($14 and under)

Editorial Review

Not a trace of the Italian restaurant Donatello's that once thrived at 2514 L St. NW remains now that Thai Coast has settled into the airy, two-story space. It's pretty in soft blues, greens and exposed brick. A spinoff of Taylay Thai (406 First St. SE) on Capitol Hill, the new restaurant does pretty well by the standards: crab-stuffed chicken wings are plump and juicy, fish cakes are pleasantly springy, and pork with green curry teases the tongue with gentle waves of heat. On the other hand, crispy whole flounder looks like the fish was on a diet when it was caught -- it's scrawny -- and the bland garden rolls aren't improved by a dipping sauce that is too sweet. If you don't demand too much from it, Thai Coast adds up to a satisfying lunch or dinner. Feeling lazy? The restaurant delivers within a two-mile radius. Entrees $8.95-$14.95. -- Tom Sietsema