2007 Fall Dining Guide
By Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Magazine
Sunday, Oct. 14, 2007

No matter where I travel on the epic menu here, I can find something to write home about. Every Thai restaurant serves spring rolls and chicken-coconut soup; Thai Square's versions lead the pack, and even the carved vegetable garnishes look fresher than at the competition. Specials live up to the definition: Squiggles of "sun-dried" pork ignited with chili sauce and soft-shell crabs, sweet and meaty beasts fried to a shattering conclusion, produce first-rate plates. With more than 100 choices, ordering can be a challenge, but decisions are made easier by enlisting the genial staff for suggestions or asking your neighbors what they like. (Thai Square counts a lot of Thais at its tables.) That said, sliced duck in a tingling red curry (No. 37 ), squid sauteed with Thai basil and chilies (No. 61), and ribbons of beef stir-fried with wide smoky noodles (No. 83) rank as personal favorites. Don't expect much atmosphere from the boxy white dining room, minimally dressed up with travel posters and an aquarium. Do anticipate vivid, varied and fresh flavors -- and what might be the best Thai cooking in the area.