The Canopy BBQ Restaurant

Barbecue
$$$$ ($15-$24)
'

Editorial Review

By Nancy Lewis
Thursday, July 22, 2004

The Canopy Barbecue Restaurant has all the charm of any fast-food place. Located on overdeveloped Baltimore National Pike, the Canopy is part of a Baltimore-area chain that is exclusively takeout. That said, the food is good. The pulled pork ($9.90 a pound) is uniformly brown and separates into thick strands saturated with the equally brown sauce. But it has a good, meaty taste and isn't drowning in the sauce. The baby back ribs ($14.95 a slab) are tender and juicy and swabbed with, rather than drenched in, the same savory sauce. On the other hand, the coleslaw and potato salad are ordinary, with no vinegar bite in either.