'Frances Ha,' 'Fast Macy L. Freeman
Cicada desserts: More than meets the (red... Maura Judkis
Pizza on 14th Street NW, from Manny Maura Judkis and Alex Baldinger
2005 Fall Dining Guide
By Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Magazine
Sunday, October 16, 2005
Take a cue from the restaurant's show window of dry-aging beef and pick a cut from within: If there's a better sirloin or porterhouse in town, I have yet to slice into it. The Capital Grille is as manly a steakhouse as you can picture, from the dark wood to the stuffed animal heads to side dishes that arrive in small barges (nutmeg-laced creamed spinach) or as edible mountains (four hungry customers merely put a dent in a voluminous plate of onion strings and cottage fries). Still, it's a civilized oasis, where steaming, jasmine-scented towels are sometimes brought between courses. To start, there are a bold French onion soup and, unfortunately, bland crab and lobster cakes; to close, consider the decadent flourless chocolate espresso cake or the dreamy coconut cream pie. From beginning to "check, please," the Capital Grille is a meat market with great appeal.
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