The Crossing at Casey Jones is a well-respected, albeit sometimes somewhat stiff, special occasion restaurant in La Plata. The wine list at Casey's is excellent. They have a number of good selections for less than $25 and some higher-end bottles that will knock your socks off. Executive Chef Gary Fick continues his impressive run of delivering high-quality, well-prepared fare. The menu changes seasonally to take advantage of local ingredients, and there are always four or five specials. We go for the sea bass and vegetable bisque when offered. The recent addition of the Rail Room on the train crossing side of the building and the implementation of the Charles County and La Plata smoking rules allow you to enjoy the same quality food and lower prices in a more casual, smoke-free environment than the formal dining room. Everyone loves the food at Casey's.

--Molli and Andy Yood, The Guide, April 26, 2007

Swordfish With Poivre Butter

For 14 years, executive chef Gary Fick has wowed Charles County residents with the kind of detail-driven, inspired cuisine that is far more likely to be found in the big city. Fick is a fish-loving man; his current favorite is Hawaiian ridgeback swordfish that is both meaty and moist, with just enough natural oils to bring deep-sea flavor.

To build a terrific entree, he starts with a base of judiciously salted wilted baby spinach and adds a layer of luscious lobster mashed potatoes. On goes a generous, grilled wedge of the ridgeback, sauced with a subtle peppercorn butter. For a playful finish, the chef positions curling crisps of salsify that act as flags. You can spot this stunning dish ($25.95, dinner menu) as it comes to the table from far across the dining room.

-- Walter Nicholls (March 5, 2008)