Vidalia

2012 Fall Dining Guide
By Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Magazine
Sunday, Oct. 21, 2012

Hands down, the city's best bread basket is the one that greets diners who descend to the underground Southern lair nurtured for 19 years by Jeff and Sallie Buben. Onion-laced foccacia, warm corn bread and pillowy dinner rolls are worth the lecture from your trainer. But go slow. There's more greatness on the way, and the owners' hospitality involves pro-athlete portions. Oyster pan roast with champagne cream and country ham is enough seafood indulgence for two. Crisp sweetbreads teeter on delicate waffles, a sophisticated spin on the classic chicken and waffles. Vidalia's signature shrimp and grits could be served in Charleston, and no one would bat an eye. A shake too much salt here and there? It happens. The plates are crowded with enhancements; the quail is shored up with foie gras mousse and crookneck squash plus (open wide!) Carolina rice grits and tomato jam. Vidalia's Southern charm starts with gracious service and runs right through dessert. My current crush is the caramel cake, served like an elegant petit four, but I'll always have a special place for the pecan pie, too.