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Food in focus: Bandolero, La Forchetta

Tom Sietsema got a look at two highly anticipated restaurants this week, Mike Isabella’s Bandolero and La Forchetta, Roberto Donna’s current haunt.

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The Mexican Small plates at Bandolero are a bright spot in a dining room that is otherwise "a black hole so dimly lighted by wall sconces that allusions to red-light districts and Luray Caverns come up."

Astrid Riecken/for The Washington Post /

'What used to be the fish-friendly Hook, vacant since a fire last June, now plays host to a south-of-the-border concept from Mike Isabella, the “Top Chef” alum behind super-popular Graffiato in Chinatown.'

"What used to be the fish-friendly Hook, vacant since a fire last June, now plays host to a south-of-the-border concept from Mike Isabella, the “Top Chef” alum behind super-popular Graffiato in Chinatown."

Astrid Riecken/for The Washington Post

'A zap of heat in a taco supporting suckling pig and matchsticks of apple demonstrates the power of habanero. Three to an order is not enough porcine pleasure for this grazer.'

"A zap of heat in a taco supporting suckling pig and matchsticks of apple demonstrates the power of habanero. Three to an order is not enough porcine pleasure for this grazer."

Astrid Riecken/for The Washington Post

Herbivores will enjoy Bandolero for 'a little garden of grilled asparagus and beets stacked on a two-bite tortilla.'

Herbivores will enjoy Bandolero for "a little garden of grilled asparagus and beets stacked on a two-bite tortilla."

Astrid Riecken/for The Washington Post

Executive chef Roberto Donna stands next to the wood pizza oven inside the new Italian restaurant La Forchetta.

Executive chef Roberto Donna stands next to the wood pizza oven inside the new Italian restaurant La Forchetta.

Astrid Riecken/for The Washington Post

A spacious patio offers al fresco dining next at La Forchetta.

A spacious patio offers al fresco dining next at La Forchetta.

Astrid Riecken/for The Washington Post

'Pork belly, sliced into crisp dominos and neatly arranged on a row of buttery diced apples, is listed as an appetizer but qualifies as a decadent dinner.'

"Pork belly, sliced into crisp dominos and neatly arranged on a row of buttery diced apples, is listed as an appetizer but qualifies as a decadent dinner."

Astrid Riecken/for The Washington Post

'The concrete counter framing the oak-stoked pizza oven is a diverting place to sit, if not to indulge in the pies themselves. I keep trying them at La Forchetta, and I keep leaving slices behind, initially because of the inconsistency and, more recently, the timid crust.'

"The concrete counter framing the oak-stoked pizza oven is a diverting place to sit, if not to indulge in the pies themselves. I keep trying them at La Forchetta, and I keep leaving slices behind, initially because of the inconsistency and, more recently, the timid crust."

Astrid Riecken/for The Washington Post

Bartender and pizza chef work side-by-side around a decorated wood oven.

Bartender and pizza chef work side-by-side around a decorated wood oven.

Astrid Riecken/for The Washington Post

'Donna’s pastas turn up mostly winners (and turn on smiles). My pick is the generous bowl of calamarata pasta, floppy ivory-colored bands interspersed with a sea of squid, shrimp and tiny mussels in a light but tangy wash of tomato and shrimp stock.'

"Donna’s pastas turn up mostly winners (and turn on smiles). My pick is the generous bowl of calamarata pasta, floppy ivory-colored bands interspersed with a sea of squid, shrimp and tiny mussels in a light but tangy wash of tomato and shrimp stock."

Astrid Riecken/for The Washington Post

Forchetta (say fork-etta) is Italian for “fork,” and the one in your hand at the restaurant is apt to stay in motion as you return for more of the salt cod. One of the many cicchetti, or small plates, that open the menu. The cool shredded cod is ringed in a shimmering herbed olive oil.

Forchetta (say fork-etta) is Italian for “fork,” and the one in your hand at the restaurant is apt to stay in motion as you return for more of the salt cod. One of the many cicchetti, or small plates, that open the menu. The cool shredded cod is ringed in a shimmering herbed olive oil.

Astrid Riecken/for The Washington Post

FEATURED PHOTO GALLERIES

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