Bruce Wood’s succulent, sustainable oysters

Virginia oyster farmer Bruce Wood’s biggest client by far is Jamie Leeds, chef-owner of Hank’s Oyster Bar in Dupont Circle and Alexandria. But his business started as a way to clean up the Chesapeake.

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Oyster farmer Bruce Wood stands on his dock, which sports a small column of floating oysters, one of many spots where he cultivates and harvests locally sourced oysters and blue crab from Nomini Creek in Montross, Va. He sells to Hank's Oyster Bar, among other restaurants.

Linda Davidson / The Washington Post

Wood shucks some recently harvested oysters from Nomini Creek. Wood farms oysters on 35 acres of leased bottom just off his back yard on the shore of Nomini Creek, a tributary of the Potomac River 15 miles west of the Chesapeake Bay.

Linda Davidson / The Washington Post

Wood points out the adductor muscle of an oyster that he cultivates and harvests. The muscle allows the oyster to expand and contract, thus filtering the water.

Linda Davidson / The Washington Post

Wood samples his oysters. He started growing the oysters as a hobby, and with the health of the bay in mind. But within a few years of seeding his first 500 spat, or larvae, “there were a million oysters out there.”

Linda Davidson / The Washington Post

Oyster shells are left over after being shucked. After harvesting and shucking, Wood puts the leftover shells back in the creekbed to give the oysters a better habitat for repopulating.

Linda Davidson / The Washington Post

Wood’s oysters are turned into cornmeal-battered oyster beignets with smoked oyster sauce.

Bill O'Leary / The Washington Post

A Korean-inspired kimchi broth with shiitake mushrooms, spinach and oysters.

Bill O'Leary / The Washington Post

An oyster dish with chopped Chinese watercress flavored with cream, lemon grass, ginger, Sriracha, scallion and cilantro.

Bill O'Leary / The Washington Post

Wood, left, and his first mate, Eric Cardenas, head out to check their boat on Nomini Creek.

Linda Davidson / The Washington Post

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