Since February, an attendant at the door leading to the second-story Heritage India in Glover Park has been offering arrivals a choice of menus. One option sends customers upstairs, for the expected tandoori chicken and Goan curry. The other menu features the cooking of southern India and keeps patrons on the first level, now known as Malgudi.
Stay grounded. Malgudi makes some of the most intriguing vegetarian food this side of the two Rasika restaurants. The evidence appears with a snack of what look like hush puppies but turn out to be Mysore bonda, fritters whipped up from rice and lentil batters and flavored with chilies and fresh coconut in their fluffy middles. Further proof you won’t miss meat: cauliflower florets rolled in rice batter and fried to a fine crackle with ginger, garlic and chilies. There are fine dosas, too, in nearly a dozen styles.