Pizza Parts and Service: On a wing and a knot


A specialty pie with sausage, onions, garlic and basil at Pizza Parts and Service. (Astrid Riecken/For The Washington Post )

The owners of Taylor Gourmet, the popular District sandwich shop with nine branches and a thumbs up from the POTUS to its credit, rolled out a novelty in April: Pizza Parts & Service, a pizza joint with a soft-core biker theme and wings on the side.

The new venture joins the original Taylor Gourmet on H Street NE and replaces Taylor Charles Steak & Ice, which went dark in January. Relying on a gas oven for its signature dish, offered in 14- and 18-inch rounds as well as an 18-inch rectangle, Pizza Parts & Service stands apart from its competition with house-made mozzarella, dough made twice a day and fresh herbs only.

At least six pizzas are available throughout the day by the slice. Look for a snappy pepperoni and a blistered cheese on a tan and tasty crust that’s easy to fold over onto itself. Whole pizzas are not for the impatient. “Good pizza takes time,” says co-owner Casey Patten. Ten minutes for a pie lavished with sausage, caramelized onions, garlic spread, basil and two molten cheeses proves worth the wait, I discovered on a recent weekday afternoon.

Those chicken wings come in a host of fun flavors (Old Bay, hot-and-sweet Thai chili) and a choice of cool dips. Make mine Red Hot Garlic Cilantro with blue cheese, please.

The sleeper on the menu? Garlic knots, puffs of baked dough dusted with Parmesan cheese and fragrant from the stinking rose. Order a salad and you get two of the pull-aparts; arugula with pecorino-Romano and a lemon-herb vinaigrette evens out any guilt for carb-loading.

The same attention to detail that goes into the food at Pizza Parts & Service infuses its design. Hand-upholstered stools flank heavy wood tables, the edges of which are trimmed with pieces reclaimed from old high school lockers. Chevrons in the ceiling point to the pizza counter in the back, above which hangs a red-and-white neon sign screaming PIZZA. Where the walls aren’t tiled in white, they’re brightened with posters from long-ago biker movies and rock concerts.

Pizza Parts & Service stays open late (until 3:30 a.m. on weekends) and makes deliveries around Capitol Hill, New York Avenue and parts of 19th Street NE — true to the end of its name.

1320 H St. NE. 202-388-6880. www.pizzapartsandservice.com. Pizza by the slice, $2.75 to $3.75; whole pies, $9 to $20.

Weaned on a beige buffet a la “Fargo” in Minnesota, Tom Sietsema is the food critic for The Washington Post. This is his second tour of duty at the Post. Sietsema got his first taste in the ‘80s, when he was hired by his predecessor to answer phones, write some, and test the bulk of the Food section’s recipes. That’s how he learned to clean squid, bake colonial cakes and distinguish between nutmeg and mace.
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