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Closer Inspection: A Washington feast at Mount Vernon

The holiday dessert table at George Washington’s Mount Vernon estate is resplendent with tantalizing sweets. But don’t try to take a bite: All the period delicacies on display are inedible replicas. — Kris Coronado

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The table at Mount Vernon (3200 Mount Vernon Memorial Hwy., Alexandria, 703-780-2000, www.mountvernon.org) is set for 10. Most dinners at Mount Vernon were two courses, says the estate’s associate curator, Laura Simo. The first was hot foods such as ham and rabbit, and vegetables such as asparagus; the second was dessert, with sweet and savory items. Through Jan. 6, visitors can get a glimpse of what a feast at George Washington’s home may have looked like.

Benjamin C. Tankersley / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

The plum pudding is a plaster cast of the real dessert. It is hollow to decrease the amount of weight placed on the tableware. The replica weighs no more than a pound, Simo says. Custom-made food pieces must be made of materials approved by a conservator so “we’re not introducing any materials that may ... react in a negative way with our collection,” Simo says.

The plum pudding is a plaster cast of the real dessert. It is hollow to decrease the amount of weight placed on the tableware. The replica weighs no more than a pound, Simo says. Custom-made food pieces must be made of materials approved by a conservator so “we’re not introducing any materials that may ... react in a negative way with our collection,” Simo says.

Benjamin C. Tankersley / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

The recipe for this hedgehog cake calls for slivered almonds to create the hedgehog’s quills, but the foam replica uses painted wood. “We don’t know if the Washingtons enjoyed it, but ... it’s a fun one to do,” Simo says.

The recipe for this hedgehog cake calls for slivered almonds to create the hedgehog’s quills, but the foam replica uses painted wood. “We don’t know if the Washingtons enjoyed it, but ... it’s a fun one to do,” Simo says.

Benjamin C. Tankersley / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

The silver-plated wine coaster, on loan from the Smithsonian Institution, was bought for Washington by the Marquis de Lafayette in the 1780s.

The silver-plated wine coaster, on loan from the Smithsonian Institution, was bought for Washington by the Marquis de Lafayette in the 1780s.

Benjamin C. Tankersley / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

Glassware on the table. In February, the museum opens the exhibit “Hoecakes & Hospitality: Cooking With Martha Washington.

Glassware on the table. In February, the museum opens the exhibit “Hoecakes & Hospitality: Cooking With Martha Washington.

Benjamin C. Tankersley / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

“The one dessert we do know the Washingtons would have enjoyed is the Twelfth Night cake,” or Martha Washington’s “great cake,” Simo says. Twelfth Night (Jan. 6) is the Washingtons’ wedding anniversary; they married in 1759. Guests can get a free copy of Martha Washington’s recipe, but be prepared for a palate experience of a different sort. “They’re more complex in their flavors than what we have today,” Simo says. “A lot of recipes call for nutmeg, a lot of times adding currants, chopped figs, dates, dried fruits. ... A spicy-sweet versus a sugary-sweet.”

“The one dessert we do know the Washingtons would have enjoyed is the Twelfth Night cake,” or Martha Washington’s “great cake,” Simo says. Twelfth Night (Jan. 6) is the Washingtons’ wedding anniversary; they married in 1759. Guests can get a free copy of Martha Washington’s recipe, but be prepared for a palate experience of a different sort. “They’re more complex in their flavors than what we have today,” Simo says. “A lot of recipes call for nutmeg, a lot of times adding currants, chopped figs, dates, dried fruits. ... A spicy-sweet versus a sugary-sweet.”

Benjamin C. Tankersley / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

Among the faux desserts on the table: frosted cakes. The pieces are generally made of foam and acrylic paint.

Among the faux desserts on the table: frosted cakes. The pieces are generally made of foam and acrylic paint.

Benjamin C. Tankersley / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

The tableware is a mix of 18th-century pieces and reproductions of creamware (lead-glazed earthenware), Simo says. Little of the Washingtons’ creamware remain today, even though Washington ordered some 250 pieces. It was likely used daily, Simo says.

The tableware is a mix of 18th-century pieces and reproductions of creamware (lead-glazed earthenware), Simo says. Little of the Washingtons’ creamware remain today, even though Washington ordered some 250 pieces. It was likely used daily, Simo says.

Benjamin C. Tankersley / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

Other replica desserts include: sheep marzipan ...

Other replica desserts include: sheep marzipan ...

Benjamin C. Tankersley / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

... marzipan shells ...

... marzipan shells ...

Benjamin C. Tankersley / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

... and minced meat tarts.

... and minced meat tarts.

Benjamin C. Tankersley / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

Though there are no records showing the Washingtons had a crabapple pyramid centerpiece at a holiday dinner, pyramids of any sort were popular among elite, middle and even some lower classes, Simo says.

Though there are no records showing the Washingtons had a crabapple pyramid centerpiece at a holiday dinner, pyramids of any sort were popular among elite, middle and even some lower classes, Simo says.

Benjamin C. Tankersley / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

The Washingtons’ guests might have refreshed their palate with fruits and cheeses, set on a nearby sideboard.

The Washingtons’ guests might have refreshed their palate with fruits and cheeses, set on a nearby sideboard.

Benjamin C. Tankersley / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

Simo says some of Washington’s favorite cheeses were cheddar ...

Simo says some of Washington’s favorite cheeses were cheddar ...

Benjamin C. Tankersley / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

... and Gloucester. He also favored oranges, coconut and pineapples.

... and Gloucester. He also favored oranges, coconut and pineapples.

Benjamin C. Tankersley / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

“The colors, the textures, the tastes of the table really must have shown to guests just who the Washingtons were,” Simo says.

“The colors, the textures, the tastes of the table really must have shown to guests just who the Washingtons were,” Simo says.

Benjamin C. Tankersley / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

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